Italeri Stug III G - Part I

And now over to something completely different...

As I mentioned before, I've been absent from the hobby for about two decades. However, that didn't stop me every now and then visiting the models shops and having a look at new stuff. Usually, the result of those visits was a spontaneous purchase of one or two armored vehicles in 1/72 scale. Over the years, those random purchases accumulated into a "largish" collection of unbuilt kits and it's time to do something about it.

For no specific reason, I picked up a late Stug from Italeri as my first model. Initial impression is quite positive - it's a simple model, but with better detail than your average Airfix kit. I think it is quite suitable as a first model for beginners, since chassis and superstructure can be completed separately and then put together without any additional hassle with side skirts.

Pictures show two main sections of the model already assembled and painted with a primer. Superstructure is ready for "real" paint job, while chassis is still missing its wheels, which are still in their sprues.

Airfix Spitfire MkIa - Part VIII

There no way around it - this little model keeps surprising me in every possible way and its decals are no exception. When I sat down last Saturday, I was fully expecting to be done with this step of building process in twenty minutes or so. Four hours later and more than eighty decals of varying sizes later I was slightly stupefied by the value I got for just a couple of bucks. I was also rather pleased with the the result, even with the mistakes I made along the way (two decals scrambled beyond repair and tossed, I dare you to spot what's missing :-).

Couple of things of note. First of all, patience pays of. Deal with decals of same type all at once and take your time while positioning them. The brush comes handy if the decal dries out and needs to be "re-weted". Also, its tip works quite well as readjustment tool once the decal is set on the surface. Toothpicks are excellent holders while placing long, thin decals. Finally, MicroSol and MicroSet - if you're to get only two chemicals for this hobby, those are the two you need to get!

 Below are the pictures of the model being almost finished. Decals are in place and a final coat of Vallejo blank varnish has been applied to protect them. Finally, all the engraved panel lines have been highlighted with a very thin dark brown and black wash.

C4 Open 2012 - Part 1

For those unfamiliar with the event, C4 Open is the biggest annual competition for model and diorama builders in Southern Sweden. It is also a great opportunity for general public to admire a whole load of models built and painted to highest standards.

For me personally, a visit to the exhibition is something of an annual pilgrimage and the result of the visit is always a bunch of photos. This year was no different in that respect and here's the first batch for you to admire. First off, various models that weren't participating in the competitions.

Airfix Spitfire MkIa - Part VII

It's been a busy couple of weeks, but I have made some progress on the model. Camouflage pattern (Humbrol 30 acrylic paint) has now been airbrushed on the upper surfaces of the plane and I can say that all the hard work spent on masking did pay off. Still, I do feel that there has to be a better way to do this task.

Once the camouflage was in place, I've sealed the paint job with Vallejo's gloss acrylic varnish (straight from a can). There is a dual purpose for this step - first and foremost it protects the paint job and I have already seen evidence of the fact that Humbrol acrylics are rather fragile.

Second, glossy surface is preferable when applying the decals. Not only do they adhere much better, but it's also the best way to avoid so called 'silvering'. To explain silvering one needs to understand what makes a surface blank or matte. Basically, a blank surface is smooth -  the more smoothness, the greater the shine. Flat finish means that the surface is porous; not necessarily porous to the touch, but it will be rough and uneven if you take a look at it under a microscope. Silvering occurs when a decal is applied on such porous surface. What happens then is that the light passes through the transparent film on which the decal is printed and bounces back from the tiny spaces in paint surface which are now trapped beneath that decal. As a result, the light bounces back "unevenly". This creates an unattractive optical phenomenon called 'silvering - decal film becomes clearly visible as a slight silvery tint of the surface, thus spoiling the illusion of decals being painted directly on the surface of the model. Best way to avoid that problem is to paint the model, or at least the areas where decals are to be applied, with gloss varnish of some sort.

Green camouflage and two thin coats of Vallejo gloss varnish has been applied.
Next, the decals.